Black Powder Rules Pdf Free Download

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Anonymous No.67318143 Report

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July the 19th in military history:

711 – Battle of Guadalete: Umayyad forces under Tariq ibn Ziyad defeat the Visigoths led by King Roderic.
998 – Arab–Byzantine wars: Battle of Apamea: Fatimids defeat a Byzantine army near Apamea.
1333 – Wars of Scottish Independence: Battle of Halidon Hill: The English win a decisive victory over the Scots.
1544 – Italian War of 1542–46: The first Siege of Boulogne begins.
1545 – The Tudor warship Mary Rose sinks off Portsmouth; in 1982 the wreck is salvaged in one of the most complex and expensive projects in the history of maritime archaeology.
1588 – Anglo-Spanish War: Battle of Gravelines: The Spanish Armada is sighted in the English Channel.
1702 – Great Northern War: A numerically superior Polish-Saxon army of Augustus II the Strong, operating from an advantageous defensive position, is defeated by a Swedish army half its size under the command of King Charles XII in the Battle of Klissow.
1863 – American Civil War: Morgan's Raid: At Buffington Island in Ohio, Confederate General John Hunt Morgan's raid into the north is mostly thwarted when a large group of his men are captured while trying to escape across the Ohio River.
1864 – Taiping Rebellion: Third Battle of Nanking: The Qing dynasty finally defeats the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom.
1870 – Franco-Prussian War: France declares war on Prussia.
1916 – World War I: Battle of Fromelles: British and Australian troops attack German trenches in a prelude to the Battle of the Somme.
1942 – World War II: Battle of the Atlantic: German Grand Admiral Karl Dönitz orders the last U-boats to withdraw from their United States Atlantic coast positions in response to the effective American convoy system.
1943 – World War II: Rome is heavily bombed by more than 500 Allied aircraft, inflicting thousands of casualties.
1972 – Dhofar Rebellion: British SAS units help the Omani government against rebels in the Battle of Mirbat.

Anonymous No.67318177 Report

It is 47 years since the Battle of Mirbat, during the Dhofar Rebellion in Oman, where 9 SAS troopers repelled an attack by 300 communist South Yemeni guerillas.

At 0600 the guerillas attacked the British Army Training Team (BATT) house, which housed the nine SAS soldiers, based just outside the Port of Mirbat. The guerillas (locally known as the Adoo) attacked knowing that to be able to reach the Port of Mirbat they would first have to defeat the SAS guarding the approach to the town in Jebel Ali.

The OC, Captain Mike Kealy, observed the waves advancing on the fort, but at first did not order his men to open fire because he thought it was the "Night Picket" coming back from night shift. The Night Picket were a loyal group of the Omani Army positioned on the slopes to warn the BATT house of Adoo troop movements. Realising that the Night Picket must have been killed, Kealy ordered his men to open fire. Kealy along with other members of the team took up positions behind the sand-bag parapet on the roof of the BATT house, firing at the Adoo with L1A1 SLR rifles, with one man firing the Browning M2HB heavy machine gun, with a further two men on ground level operating and firing an infantry mortar surrounded by sand-bags. The Adoo were armed with AK-47 assault rifles, and were mortar bombing the area around the BATT house. Kealy ordered the signaller to establish communications with SAS Headquarters at Um al Quarif, to request reinforcements.

There were a small number of Omani Intelligence Service personnel in the BATT House, a small contingent of Pakistani soldiers and a member of British Military Intelligence seconded to the OIS. They joined the team on the roof and fired on the Adoo with SLRs and other small arms. Initially some of the Pakistani soldiers were reluctant to join the defence of the fort because their roles with the BATT were largely administrative, but they obeyed orders from Mike Kealy and the British Military Intelligence Corporal.

Anonymous No.67318191 Report

>>67318177
Knowing that the SLRs would not be of full use until the Adoo were closer than the weapon's range of 800 metres, and lacking heavier firepower, Sergeant Talaiasi Labalaba made a run for the 25pdr artillery piece, which was positioned next to a smaller fort manned by Omani Army soldiers, who had not played a part in the battle. The Omani policeman who was guarding the weapon had been seriously wounded. Labalaba managed to operate the weapon, which is a six-man job, by himself and fire a round a minute at the approaching Adoo, directing their attention away from the BATT house. At the BATT house Kealy asked for a volunteer to run to Talaiasi's aid. Trooper Sekonaia Takavesi volunteered to go.

Takavesi ran from the BATT house, with the remaining men providing covering fire, in an attempt to distract the Adoo. Sekonaia ran the 800 metres through heavy gunfire, and reached the gun emplacement. Sekonaia tried to give aid to his injured friend, while firing at the approaching Adoo with his personal weapon. Realising that they needed help, Sekonaia tried to raise the small number of Omani soldiers inside the smaller fort. The only Omani Gendarmerie Officer in the Mirbat Fort was Lieutenant Hassan Naseeb. The remaining Omani soldiers in the fort engaged the enemy with small arms fire from firing positions on the roof and through the windows of the fort. As the two men made it back to the emplacement, the Omani soldier fell wounded after being shot in the stomach with a 7.62 mm bullet. Adoo continued to advance upon both the BATT house and the artillery emplacement. At one point, the Adoo were so close that Sekonaia and Talaiasi fired the weapon at point blank range, aiming down the barrel. Talaiasi crawled across a small space to reach a 60 mm infantry mortar, but fell dead after being shot in the neck. Sekonaia, also shot through the shoulder and grazed by a bullet to the back of his head, continued to fire at the approaching Adoo with his personal weapon.

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Anonymous No.67318206 Report

>>67318191
Captain Kealy and Trooper Tobin made a run to the artillery piece. Upon reaching it, they dived in to avoid increasingly intense gunfire from the Adoo. Sekonaia continued to fire on the attackers, propped up against sand bags after being shot through the stomach (the bullet narrowly missing his spine). The Adoo threw several hand grenades, but only one detonated, exploding behind the emplacement with no one injured. During the battle, Trooper Tobin attempted to reach over the body of Talaiasi. In so doing, Tobin was mortally wounded when a bullet struck his face. By this time, BAC Strikemaster light-attack jets of the Sultan of Oman's Air Force had arrived and began strafing the Adoo in the Jebel Ali. With a low cloud base making for low altitude attack runs, only machine-guns and light rockets were used. Reinforcements arrived from G Squadron and, defeated, the Adoo withdrew at about 1230hrs. All wounded SAS soldiers were evacuated, and given medical treatment. Trooper Tobin eventually died in hospital.

The 25-pounder gun (now known as the "Mirbat gun") used by Fijian Sergeant Talaiasi Labalaba during the siege is now housed in the Firepower museum of the Royal Artillery at the former Royal Arsenal, Woolwich. Though killed in action, Sgt Labalaba displayed remarkable bravery by singlehandedly operating the 25-pounder gun, a weapon normally requiring four to six soldiers to operate. Labalaba's heroism was a key factor in halting the Adoo's vicious assault on the emplacement, allowing time for reinforcements to arrive. Labalaba was awarded a posthumous Mention in Dispatches for his actions in the Battle of Mirbat, though some of his comrades have since campaigned for him to be awarded the more prestigious Victoria Cross.

This clash is a legend in SAS history, and a superb setup for a modern scenario.

www.mediafire.com/file/laumsezx0bbpbvc/Osprey_-_MAA_116_-_The_Special_Air_Service.pdf
https://www.liveleak.com/view?i=7d2_1274140685

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Anonymous No.67318225 Report

The theme for the next community project will be infantry, with a due date of Sunday, July 21.

Anonymous No.67318707 Report

>>67318225
how do we submit stuff?

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Anonymous No.67318749 Report

>>67318707
Take a pic of your little mens and post it ITT

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Anonymous No.67318822 Report

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>>67318749
alright, I think I replied a bit ago with some french grenadiers, so I'll stick with that.

Anonymous No.67319210 Report

>>67318131
So what is the consensus on black power V2? Didn't get into V1 because of all the janky shit with orders.

Anonymous No.67319620 Report

>>67319210
Is there a consensus at this stage?

Anonymous No.67321133 Report

Looking for the point prices of SPQR or the pdf....any one have it uploaded? Thanks!!

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JaZZed No.67321287 Report

Very good PDF of this book.

Anonymous No.67321769 Report

What do you guys recommend as an initial terrain set for 15mm Horse & Musket? A printed mat? Geohex?

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Anonymous No.67322380 Report

few threads ago we were talking about prehistoric games. are there any that allow solo play? maybe like hunting or something?

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Anonymous No.67322521 Report

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>>67322380
Chris Peers' Saurian Saurian Safari is based around dinosaur hunting - primarily of the Conan Doyle "Lost World" kind but works just as well for a "One Million Years B.C" game
The appearance, actions and movements of the various dinos can be programmed or determined at random, so it works fine for solitaire play
His follow-up set Mammalian Mayhem adds various prehistoric beasties but the animals in this edition are run by a player
You could try just using the stats for things in MM for SS if you wanted, perhaps matching them to one of the established dinosaur routines
Turns out there was a blog explicitly dedicated to 'cavegirl wargaming' but it fell silent years ago:
http://cavegirlwargaming.blogspot.com/
RIP all the cool wargaming blogs lost to the rising tides of real life

Anonymous No.67322875 Report

If anyone has an answer for this
>>67292460
It would be appreciated

Anonymous No.67323752 Report

>>67322875

Blackpowder has points for building your own units, and it is easy enough to reverse-engineer points for many of the troops listed in their scenarios.

Anonymous No.67324023 Report

>>67322875
so if you have already looked at lasalle, your question is clearly worded to NOT have someone answer that.

But just in the case that you don't know Lasalle and are looking for a low prep napoleonics system, the answer can still very much be Lasalle.

Blucher, by the same author, has points and is extremely low prep but most people find it lacks the tactical detail they desire.

both games are on the pdf dump

Anonymous No.67325861 Report

>>67324023
>Blucher, by the same author, has points and is extremely low prep but most people find it lacks the tactical detail they desire.
Blucher is not a tactical level game though, really.

Anonymous No.67325863 Report

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>>67319620
I don't think enough people cared for there to be a consensus.
Certainly not around here anyway.

Looking at reviews from elsewhere though it seems like they exaggerated the formatting problems. As in they formatted it even worse.

And failed to proofread. Errors on charts, errors on labbling photos and diagrams, things in the wrong place, things left the same as a previous edition whilst the text of the rules is changed elsewhere... Shit this thing looks like a complete balls up. There's a vague sense of there being a mildly better system under there in the reviews but an overt sense of god help anyone who goes in new.

Anonymous No.67325910 Report

>>67325861
no, but I felt the need to warn people. It's common criticism, but no, you really shouldn't expect tactical details in a corps focused game, especially when Mustafa wrote it.

Anonymous No.67325974 Report

>>67325910
>>67325861
They're not operational or strategic level games though so must they not just be tactical by definition?

Anonymous No.67325993 Report

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>>67325974
I find the easiest way to look at a game and judge scale is the size of the base unit.

Lasalle is a battalion

Blucher is a brigade.

You can't reasonably expect both to be represented the same way

Anonymous No.67326062 Report

>>67325974
I think there's some difference between how wargames define 'tactical level' and how the actual military uses the term 'tactical'

Anonymous No.67326574 Report

>>67326062
Wargamers can't even settle on a standard definition of what a skirmish is.

Best to just go by level of command. Unless it's a boardgame type wargame where there actually are operational and strategic level games.

Anonymous No.67327468 Report

>>67314290
It's the high lead content. Tin alloys are much harder.

Anonymous No.67327522 Report

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>>67327468
if it's rubbing off on your hands it's probably lead. But there can be other reasons... Most minis people are used to are tin alloys with hardeners like antimony, but if you up the in content it gets dramatically bendier in my experience.

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Anonymous No.67328540 Report

>>67318131
I watched some videos of former Japanese soldiers discussing their wartime experience a few weeks ago. Despite the vast gulf of difference in culture and ideology, I found them compelling in a strange way, and the idea of getting a kit of Imperial Army dudes has been floating around in my head ever since. Although my primary interest is in building and painting a small team of guys to call my own, I also would love to run skirmish games whenever I can find someone for it, which leads into my two questions; what scales are most common to skirmish games, and what manufacturers would you recommend for some Imperial Japanese soldiers in them?

I don't actually have any pictures relevant to this subject so here's a webm of tanks.

Anonymous No.67328882 Report

>>67328540
I'm quite fond of the old Matchbox Japs as the box has practically everything. Add in a box of their Aussies and you can do a fuckton of skirmishing in Burma. If you fance, drop in an IBG Type 89 and/or S-Model Matilda, and you can play Bolt Action too comfortably.

Anonymous No.67329099 Report

>>67328540
Another vote for 1/72

SHQ makes some very nice Japanese infantry. The Waterloo 1815 set is pretty nice for plastic figures.

Look at the Malaya AAR here: thetacticalpainter.blogspot.com/p/chain-of-command-campaign-aars.html
The most popular rules WW2 skirmish rules are Bolt Action or Chain of Command. You can use the same figures for both of course so can decide which you like better. I prefer CoC personally

Anonymous No.67329113 Report

>>67318131
I am thinking about starting with historical wargaming, what scale do anons recommend?

Anonymous No.67329230 Report

>>67329113
What period?

Although I would universally recommend 1:72 or 20mm. Lots of plastic model kits and figure sets cheaply, and a ton of great metal manufacturers too. For WW2 and above, the scale works really great again due to the amount and variety of vehicles and figures available. You can go from a 15 minute Armourfast build to a weekend of tinkering with Dragon and UM kits. Also, Elhiem do the best cold war and modern figs, well worth checking them out if you are interested in post-WW2 gaming.

28mm and 15mm are good too, I have some favourites from there too, but in my opinion, 20mm is one of the best scales/sizes out there, especially for beginners.

Anonymous No.67329623 Report

>>67329230
I was thinking mainly about ww2/modern games

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Anonymous No.67329637 Report

I now have Late Roman minis in 10mm, 28mm and soon 15mm. I may be addicted to a period I essentially know nothing about...
>>67329113
Depends on what you like.

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Anonymous No.67329728 Report

>>67329637
>period I essentially know nothing about...

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Anonymous No.67329797 Report

>>67329728
I'm saving up for some proper books, I splerged earlier this year on Don Troiani books about the ACW.

Anonymous No.67330775 Report

I've done some searching for goumiers in 1/72 and I haven't found anything besides a few metal figures, not enough to make a large force. Does anyone know if there are any companies that make them, or any good alternative, I was toying with the idea of using US and British figures in greatcoats

Anonymous No.67331017 Report

>>67321133
Seconded.
Has anyone played spqr yet? Would they recommend

Anonymous No.67331160 Report

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>>67329637

*Opinion Warning*
The most patrician period for Roman wargaming. Save for the Middle-Komnenian Byzantine period.

Anonymous No.67331206 Report

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>>67322875
at the skirmish end, song of drums & shakos has points, and so do Sharp Practice 2 and Chosen Men

Anonymous No.67331332 Report

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>>67331017
Doesn't seem to have much buzz about it out there on other forums, there's some stuff up on youtube regarding intro game battle reports.

From what I've seen, even allowing for the lack of in-depth coverage at present, it looks incredibly conventional, nothing special at all kind of game, might as well be a typical Osprey-published, developed-over-a-weekend release.

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Anonymous No.67331599 Report

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>>67329637
I am in the same boat with you.

Anonymous No.67331599,1 ReportDelete

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Anonymous No.67332587 Report

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>>67329797
>splerged
I'm choosing to read this as an intentional portmanteau vs a typo, because it pleases me.

Anonymous No.67333902 Report

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BMP

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Anonymous No.67335248 Report

>>67328540
Well you need to at least link to those videos man.

Bolt Action by Warlord has a pretty decent set of IJN soldiers in 28mm if all you're looking for is mans.

Anonymous No.67336482 Report

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>>67330775
I think fAA miniatures and Early War Miniatures make them. Possibly also Shellhole Scenics.

JaZZed No.67338001 Report

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>>67322875

look at Lasalle

Anonymous No.67338269 Report

>>67329797
>Don Troiani
Excellent paintings. I can assume you also picked up Shelby Foote's trilogy to go with them?

Anonymous No.67338502 Report

>>67321769
>Geohex
Now that is a name I have not heard in a long while. I still have five boxes of the stuff sitting in the corner of my game storage room.

Sorry for hijacking your question.

Anonymous No.67339639 Report

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>>67338269
Nope, I didn't have that much money.

Anonymous No.67340206 Report

>>67328540
If you intend to play a historical skirmish game then you typically opt for a larger scale of miniature, which is to say 20mm and above. The two most common being 20mm and 28mm among average wargamers. There are advantages to both but in order to avoid any arguments I'll simply leave it at that. A very popular WWII skirmish game is Bolt Action, which is a platoon level skirmish game meaning you'll be fielding about thirty to forty infantry on average. In order of popularity, Bolt Action is followed by Chain of Command, another platoon level game. There are, of course, others to consider as well with roughly the same or less miniatures involved. You should have no problem finding a game of Bolt Action at your LGS if the people there play historical games.

>what manufacturers would you recommend for some Imperial Japanese soldiers in them?
WWII is a historical period that's rich in options at any scale, you'll have no problem finding miniatures to display whatever sort of force you settle on. Although I will admit that the Pacific is not nearly as popular as the eastern and western fronts in Europe. For Japanese specifically, I'd recommend The Assault Group (TAG) if you're looking for 28mm or Esci if you're going the 20mm route.

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Anonymous No.67340783 Report

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>>67321287
thanks for sharing it!

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Anonymous No.67341041 Report

Fucking hell these look shit without a matte varnish

Anonymous No.67341070 Report

>>67341041
Here's my submission to the infantry contest as well while I'm here

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Anonymous No.67341086 Report

Anonymous No.67341131 Report

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>>67341086
Very nice, anon.

Anonymous No.67341195 Report

>>67341086
This dude in the front has seen some shit.

Anonymous No.67341812 Report

>>67328882
>>67329099
>>67335248
>>67340206
Thank you for the recommendations. I think I might go with a Warlords kit, but emphasis on the "might". I'm not dismissing the other options because I know there's an appeal to cleaning up models and then priming them straight away instead of cleaning all kinds of parts, figuring out how you'll put them together, gluing everything, and THEN priming and painting. Otherwise, they all look to be about similar quality.

> if the people there play historical games.
Nope. Might be able to find some people, though, which is why I don't want to dismiss playing a game. Emphasis on models and the hobby part, less on the game, but absolutely not excluding it.

>Well you need to at least link to those videos man.
Only one I found after a quick check, and it's something you guys have probably seen already, but I'll link it, yeah.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fVO7NbhhsoI
Not sure how I came across it when I did, but I can never pull myself away from that stuff. It isn't really morbid curiosity, but some sort of empathy, I think. Not sure I've met anyone else that understands it, but maybe people in here would; I feel like I owe it to these men, like I need to sit and listen even if no one else would. War stories get my choked up and emotional like nothing else can. This time I think it got me a little bit harder than usual, for what reason I couldn't tell you, which is why I've been seriously toying with the idea of getting a kit. Like it's paying homage to them.

Anonymous No.67342341 Report

>>67341195
i feel like when u paint eyes it's always going to look like they're a bit fucked

Anonymous No.67342539 Report

Anybody know good rules for renaissance? I was thinking about getting a 10mm Polish army from Pendraken, but need a good ruleset for it.

Anonymous No.67342813 Report

>>67341086
They look great anon, but how is painting figures that are 70% white, seems very tiresome to me.

Anonymous No.67343247 Report

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>>67342813
not that guy, but I find austrians at 15mm (those are 28mm) to be very chill to paint, and if you play up the facings they still look nice. Here's a guide on doing them while painting a minimal amount of white:

https://laurentiantabletoporganization.blogspot.com/2019/01/speed-painting-napoleonic-austrian.html

Anonymous No.67343325 Report

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Anonymous No.67343362 Report

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>>67342539

Tercios is good for anything involving, well, tercios.

Pike & Shotte is good if you want to design your own game but pretend you're using a real system

Polemos is good if you're doing English Civil War, or similar era European continental battles

Anonymous No.67343606 Report

>>67340206
>You should have no problem finding a game of Bolt Action at your LGS if the people there think they're playing historical games.

FTFY

>>67341812
>Emphasis on models and the hobby part, less on the game, but absolutely not excluding it.

Which, of course, is why you're posting in the historical warGAMES general.

Anonymous No.67345161 Report

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67343606
>he's back
Nobody cares about your autism, kys.

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Anonymous No.67345191 Report

I'd like to see an English Civil War game that instead treated it like AK47 Republic but with pikes & muskets. Because it was a shitshow of idiots and incompetents with absolute garbage quality troops for the most part, and a few bright sparks.

Anonymous No.67346054 Report

Guys we are in second place, just after fucking 40k
Go vote for Historicals as best of /tg/
>>67334047

Anonymous No.67346855 Report

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>>67343606
Get fucked m8 you're precisely the sort the hobby does not need.

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Anonymous No.67347416 Report

>>67346054
I am conflicted on this one.

I am proud of our little community and the way we do things in this hellhole. On the other hand I don't like the fact that we are being advertised like this heightening the chance of epic memesters joining.

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Anonymous No.67347581 Report

>>67345191
Like AK47 in what way? Ill-equipped bungling incompetents always makes for a fun game.

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Anonymous No.67347614 Report

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>>67347416
Idiots join, but they end up leaving. There's a limit to how much fun they can ever have in our slow threads.

Anonymous No.67347696 Report

>>67341812
>Thank you for the recommendations. I think I might go with a Warlords kit
Warlord Games is always reliably available and offer free shipping which is a bonus if you don't live in the UK where most of the smaller manufacturers are located. There have been some issues with Warlord in the past where the sculpting was not great, but their Japanese are newer sculpts and I think they look good.
>Nope. Might be able to find some people, though, which is why I don't want to dismiss playing a game. Emphasis on models and the hobby part, less on the game, but absolutely not excluding it.
Building a community from the ground up was half of the fun I had when I first started in this hobby. Maybe you'll be able to find the same opportunities I did and make some new friends. But if not, that's entirely okay too. Some of us just like to collect and paint nice figures.
>Not sure I've met anyone else that understands it, but maybe people in here would; I feel like I owe it to these men, like I need to sit and listen even if no one else would.
Yeah, you've found your way home.

Anonymous No.67347801 Report

>>67346054
The only reason historicals are getting votes is that no one really comes here and all they think is "yeah, they're probably fine"

Anonymous No.67347814 Report

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>>67347581
Less focus on the mechanical precision of unit movement and keeping units in good order and more on the difficultly of getting units to battle in the first place and getting them to do something other than waste all their ammo then run away. More flavour for the fucking up.

Anonymous No.67347825 Report

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>>67347801
Nah, mate. You see, only boomers spend their time on historical wargames and boomers are also the only age group that regularly votes.

Anonymous No.67348337 Report

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>>67343606
Why do you care if he's playing games or not? I don't understand

Anonymous No.67348356 Report

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>>67347696
>There have been some issues with Warlord in the past where the sculpting was not great, but their Japanese are newer sculpts and I think they look good.
From what I've managed to glean, the models look better than the painting on their website does.
>Maybe you'll be able to find the same opportunities I did and make some new friends. But if not, that's entirely okay too.
Pretty much where I stand. If I find some people that are interested, great, means the lads get to see action. If not, that's fine. I made them and painted them. Breathed life into them, in a sort of way. That was the most important part.

Have a quick question, and anyone is free to step in and answer. Has anyone run a game that portrayed Japanese holdouts, real or fictional? I watched some stuff about Hirō Onoda and I have to be honest here, I'd love to try setting something up involving holdouts skirmishing with peasants or even local law enforcement. Curious to see if anyone has done it before, and what their experience was.

Anonymous No.67348946 Report

>>67347416
Are those Perry WoR light cavalry?

Anonymous No.67349092 Report

>>67348946
They are, great little set.

Anonymous No.67349258 Report

>>67349092
Very nice, where did you get that wattle fence?

Anonymous No.67349989 Report

Quoted By:

>>67342341
I read that if you try to make them look cross eyed it'll look right. Be fucked if I can get that kind of control over the brush though.

Anonymous No.67350011 Report

>>67349258
I believe perry also sell those. I think they're originally renedra kits.

Anonymous No.67350035 Report

Quoted By:

>>67347801
Honestly, I'm ok with keeping it that way.

We keep a decent reputation and don't get a flood of summerfags shitting it up for everyone.

View SameGoogleiqdbSauceNAOTrace EOcambatteamLR_zpsdb44ec0f.jpg~o (...).jpg, 179KiB, 709x408

Anonymous No.67353013 Report

Quoted By:

Anonymous No.67353578 Report

>>67338502
Did you like it? The Geohex guy is doing business on EBay now.

View SameGoogleiqdbSauceNAOTrace 20190516_073922.jpg, 154KiB, 1561x1080

Anonymous No.67354344 Report

Are there any really good games for the First World War? Something that models the days of bombardment, trench digging, and those kinds of larger strategic decisions, rather than just the moment-to-moment tactical decisions once men go over the top.

View SameGoogleiqdbSauceNAOTrace flames of war 004.jpg, 44KiB, 320x240

Anonymous No.67354535 Report

>>67329623
Do yourselves a favor and go 6mm or smaller.
Everything else just looks absolutely retarded once battles exceed a squad and one vehicle per side. Theres also no room for maneuvering unless you got a 5x5m table.

Pic related, "tank parking lot" syndrome.

Anonymous No.67354656 Report

Quoted By:

>>67347801

Let's be honest, here you find somewhat interesting discussion, Osprey books to read on the goddamn commute and the Christmas gifts are fine. Sometimes you even get to check rulesets the four times par year you manage to play a goddamn game since you grew up. Best community on /tg/ indeed.

Anonymous No.67355090 Report

>>67329623
Depends on how big you want. Platoon+assets? 20-28mm. 15mm can be fun, but as >>67354535 points out, it can devolve into parking lots. If you want big battles, go 6 or 10.

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Anonymous No.67355763 Report

Quoted By:

>>67354344
GDW's Over The Top is kind of old and clunky now, but allows you to field up to a corps on the table and includes rules for strategic/campaign play
My old scan of it is in the WW1/Games folder

Anonymous No.67356140 Report

>>67353578
My group's and my opinion on it is :

Pros
>modular
It lets you create custom hills/valleys/and other shapes. Rather than plunking basic shapes on the table.
>gentle slope
It has a rise of a 1/2 inch by run of 3 inches. It is more gentle than many hills on the market. We haven't had much of a problem with model tipping.
>1/2 inch height
The hills are not that sever, unless you get the higher sets. At that height 15mm basically disappears from LOS.

Cons
>styrofoam
Thats whats its made of. Not a very robust material.
>hex is 12 inch side to side / known distance
You run into the issue of premeasure. So if you play a game were you can charge or shoot and fall short, the players know the distances better. They know they will fail so will hold back.
>price
Traditionally it was a high price for, well, styrofoam.
>seam lines
If you like beauty the joint lines and hex shapes might put you off.

>Did you like it?
I originally hung out at my first FLGS from 93-10. Geohex was the regulars favorite terrain. We used it for most every thing. I bought what I have off one of the old regulars that stored it at the store. We don't use it as much now since its stored at my house, but we still like it. If I remember right the guy stopped making it because he got divorced and the wife was entitled to a profit percentage. Basically a "fuck that bitch" move. I know he does limited runs on Ebay. I should probably check to see if hes doing more than that now.

I wish someone would take the concept and shapes and make it out of injection molded plastic.

Anonymous No.67356688 Report

Quoted By:

>>67356140
Don't know anything about this brand of terrain, but I can tell you that you can knock together terrain of similar (or better) quality for nay money and without much in the way of expertise.

Anonymous No.67357571 Report

Warlord anon - am I actually blind, or nothing states in the SPQR rulebook that you use D6s to roll?

Anonymous No.67357579 Report

Quoted By:

>>67356140
>I wish someone would take the concept and shapes and make it out of injection molded plastic.
Sounds like a business opportunity in China.

Seriously, though, thanks for the writeup.

Anonymous No.67357590 Report

>>67357571
you have the SPQR rulebook?

Anonymous No.67357609 Report

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Anonymous No.67357636 Report

Recommendations for makers of 28mm/ 1/56 modern vehicles?

Anonymous No.67357760 Report

>>67357571
It's right at the beginning in the what you need to play bit

Anonymous No.67357845 Report

Quoted By:

>>67357636
There are not many, and usually its 1/50 scale.

Empress Miniatures has a expanding range, Tiny terrain models released an awesome T-62 a little while ago and there is also Blitzkrieg Miniatures, but their "modern" stuff is mostly Cold War.

Anonymous No.67358060 Report

>>67357609
Why the fuck does Pompey have the trait to do with wealth and not Crassus?

Anonymous No.67358106 Report

>>67358060
Because he Pom-paid more

Anonymous No.67358122 Report

Quoted By:

>>67358106
Heh. You're okay, kid.

Anonymous No.67358129 Report

Quoted By:

>>67358106
fucking Pompay-to-win garbage

Anonymous No.67358255 Report

Quoted By:

>>67357760
Ah, thanks. I should get new glasses.

Anonymous No.67358378 Report

The only WW2 wargames ive really heard of are Bolt Action, Chain of Command, Crossfire and flames of war does anyone know any other games that are at least somewhat good?

Anonymous No.67358472 Report

>>67358378
Battlegroup, but the fanboys are pretentious cocks.

Hammer of Democracy from Nordic Weasel if you want a simple but fun game.

Operation World War II if you want detailed combat where tank crew members are accounted for separately.

Anonymous No.67358486 Report

>>67358378
Rapid Fire - brigade-level with lots of emphasis on combined arms
I Ain't Been Shot Mum - skirmish rules from the Lardies (who also do Chain of Command)
Command Decision - the original grandad from the 80s, forefather of stuff like FoW
Ostfront - made by one of our own!

View SameGoogleiqdbSauceNAOTrace D_xkS2zXsAEU2Qp.jpg, 344KiB, 1600x1033

Anonymous No.67358492 Report

Anonymous No.67358577 Report

Quoted By:

>>67354344
The Lardies did one called Corps limey in their Xmas special 2008. See also https://toofatlardies.co.uk/blog/?p=37

Anonymous No.67358580 Report

>>67358378
Also adding in Five Men At Kursk/Fivecore. The rules are not the most clearly written, but it plays well and you need basically no models (~5-10 per side) to play. It's a fun little squad-level skirmish game.

View SameGoogleiqdbSauceNAOTrace OSTFRONT QUICKFIRE RULES.pdf, 3MiB, 1x1

Anonymous No.67358649 Report

>>67358378
Ostfont is pretty quick and deadly, similar scale to FoW but much less fucking around and probably better balanced.

JaZZ No.67358759 Report

Quoted By:

>>67321287
Good try, but About 2 years old True Pdf.

Anonymous No.67358904 Report

Quoted By:

>>67358472
>>67358486
>>67358580
>>67358649

Thanks guys, im a big fan of WW2 games but the real popular ones never really did it for me, il be sure to check these out.

Anonymous No.67359066 Report

>>67357636
Hobby Master used to make a 1/56 scale Abrams.

For vehicles in a big scale you're better off with 1/72 honestly. The reason 1/56 is not a common scale is because model makers don't use it and there's no popular current year game set in 1/56 scale. Maybe if Bolt Action releases an OEF/OIF supplement some day you'll see it start to pop up.

Anonymous No.67359443 Report

Quoted By:

>>67349258
These minis are not mine, I have a lot of them myself though.

And >>67350011 is right

Anonymous No.67359456 Report

>>67357636
>>67359066
>The reason 1/56 is not a common scale is because model makers don't use it and there's no popular current year game set in 1/56 scale. Maybe if Bolt Action releases an OEF/OIF supplement some day you'll see it start to pop up.
But all the Bolt Action vehicles are supposedly 1/56?

Anyway if you get on their newletter and wait around for a tank sale you may be able to get some good deals.

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Anonymous No.67359483 Report

How does /hwg/ feel about adding bowstrings to your minis?
Any kind of string better then others?

Anonymous No.67359500 Report

>>67359483
More trouble than it's worth, especially if you play smaller scales.

Anonymous No.67359511 Report

>>67359483
Too much effort. Only time I'd consider something like that would be doing the major rigging for a sailing ship.

Anonymous No.67359532 Report

>>67359483
Very cool but very tedious not worth it.

Anonymous No.67359534 Report

Quoted By:

>>67359483
The only archers I have are in 6mm so that's a no from me.

Anonymous No.67359553 Report

>>67359483
>string pulled back
>bow is perfectly straight

Eh

Anonymous No.67359756 Report

>>67359456
tanks for wargaming in plastic in 1/56 is a tiny tiny tiny niche withing scale modelling.
From all the big scale model companies, only Italeri jumped on the 1/56 train (because Warlord Games outsourced the kit making process to them). No other company besides them (and Rubicon, which do nothing but 1/56) do plastic 1/56 models.

1/72 (20mm) on the other hand is the second biggest vehicle scale on the market. There are hundreds of companies doing 1/72 kits and you get a way bigger variety with kits in all sorts of detail/difficulty/price-tiers.

And since we talked about modern vehicles, Bolt Action does not fit in here, because its tank/vehicle kits are WW2 so far.

Anonymous No.67359869 Report

Quoted By:

>>67359756
I kind of misunderstood the comment then. I thought you were saying Bolt Action was either not a popular game or a different scale. The thing about the models being modern apparently just didn't stick with me while reading.
Sorry for the confusion.

Anonymous No.67360275 Report

Anonymous No.67360333 Report

Anonymous No.67361127 Report

Quoted By:

>>67356140
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1378063512/tabletop-hex-terrain-toolkit
There's this kit though the small hexes would mean lots of seams and it would still be foam.

Anonymous No.67361352 Report

Quoted By:

>>67360333
>>67360275
they look like Baccus, so 6mm

Anonymous No.67362457 Report

>>67318131

Anybody tried individually based 6mm for a Pocket Dux Britanniarum? I'm considering giving it a go, but don't want to 'waste' my figures if it's going to be shit.

Anonymous No.67362701 Report

>>67362457
You could always chuck 4 or 5 on a base instead of 1. Would probably look good.

Anonymous No.67364137 Report

Quoted By:

Anonymous No.67366217 Report

>>67362701
You could indeed keep the actual basing size and rules by adding more minis onto it. But were will be the "pocket" in this?

Divide any measurement by the same "meant to be played sized / actually being played sized", glue some magnets under each figs and play on painted or coated transportable ferromagnetized case.

I tried to achieve a pocket WH40K in my days but magnetic sheets stuck under the minis' bases isn't enough to firmly hold them on sand coated magnetic sheets. I should try again with neodymium 6x1mm this time but life keeps getting on the way.

Anonymous No.67366261 Report

What are some good tactical level feudal europe hex and counter wargames?

Anonymous No.67366621 Report

>>67347429
i really like that building
any more angles?

Anonymous No.67366720 Report

Quoted By:

>>67359456
Bolt Action is WWII and he wants moderns.

Anonymous No.67367385 Report

>>67357636
Honestly? Go 20mm.
You can get basically everything in 20mm. Resins, die-cast, fancy easily breakable details or wargame-friendly chunks, plastic kits both simple and complex.

Trying to get anything post-WW2 for 28mm is a crapshoot of trying to find if something vaguely appropriate is available and not gigantically out of scale, or made by someone who can't cast for shit so you might as well have sculpted it yourself for the amount of time spent on filling air bubbles.

Even Empress's line is over-sized compared to their infantry.

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Anonymous No.67367681 Report

>box of 42 Perry US Infantry
>$33 on eBay, free shipping

>box of 30 Warlord Games US Infantry
>$32 on eBay, free shipping

I don't get it. Are they trying to be GW?

Anonymous No.67368407 Report

Quoted By:

>>67367385
I recommend also 20mm for modern warfare gaming. The ranges of available vehicles and figures (especially through Elhiem Figures, Enfilade Figures, Under Fire Miniatures, etc.) is huge.

And from the space on the gaming table is 20mm better than 28mm. You can field up to a company with this scale without big problems.

Anonymous No.67369039 Report

Quoted By:

Anonymous No.67369255 Report

>>67367681
had this convo last thread, but yeah I really don't see how people can pay more for warlord when there are cheaper perries. I guess it's just a noob flag.

Anonymous No.67370349 Report

>>67366217
>I tried to achieve a pocket WH40K in my days
Andy?

Anonymous No.67370885 Report

Quoted By:

>>67367681
Warlord kits also offer less bits and worse sculpts.

Anonymous No.67371264 Report

>>67369255
Perry don't make plastic japanese, marines, winter germans, etc.

Anonymous No.67373184 Report

>>67371264
>plastic
homosex

Anonymous No.67373282 Report

>>67367681
>on ebay

Are they sold by Perry and Warlord on ebay or is it independent sellers?

Anonymous No.67373296 Report

Quoted By:

Anonymous No.67373643 Report

Tomorrow is Sunday. Sunday morning wargaming at the LGS. This will be my second time attending. A group of lads is doing a flames of war Battle of Stalingrad. They are going to let me play with some of their units and let me get a feel for the game before I build my own army

Anonymous No.67373766 Report

>>67373643
sounds like something historifriends would do. I packed 4 armies and provided them to students over a 4 months basis for an escalation league.

Anonymous No.67373839 Report

>>67373766
Are you the guy from a couple threads ago who organized a mini battle for his grade 10 students to play? I think it was something with Normans.

Anonymous No.67373950 Report

Anyone else looking forward to the Korean War supplement for Bolt Action? I'm sure the rules will mostly be copy-pasted but I hope they release more Korean War era infantry kits

Anonymous No.67374420 Report

I'm getting into Bolt Action, but I can't decide whether or not to go British or US. I want to either run commandos or paratroopers in either. Which do you guys think would be the better choice for a new player?

Anonymous No.67374673 Report

Anonymous No.67374736 Report

Quoted By:

>>67374420
America's ability to ignore move-and-shoot penalties is pretty dope, and the twos vehicles are basically interchangeable. The Brits have some more flexible bonuses, and their artillery observer comes free, so you can always use that bonus, whereas the US's air observer still has to be bought to get that bonus.

Anonymous No.67375179 Report

Quoted By:

>>67373839
nah different guy. I do a lot of events at the university level.

JaZZ No.67375636 Report

Quoted By:

Toy_Soldier_Collector_International_-_August_-_September_2019.pdf <https://workupload.com/file/D68CZ6sk>;

Anonymous No.67375821 Report

Quoted By:

>>67370349
Nah sorry mate, Jeff from NZ here.

Anonymous No.67375879 Report

Quoted By:

>>67367681
Perry are very, very nice and very well researched. I'll always buy Perry if I can. Most of my Napoleonics are from Perry. That said, up until this year (2019) they only had Afrikakorps and Desert Rats available in plastic boxes. It stayed that way for a number of years. The American infantry are brand new and quite nice, but you have to understand that people want to play more than just what's available from the Perry brothers. Warlord makes a lot of other sets that I doubt either Perry will ever get around to doing in plastic.

Anonymous No.67376126 Report

Quoted By:

>>67369255
Unless Perrys have a hidden store/range, Warlord has a more extensive range than Perrys. My goto 25mm+ WWII game needs support weapons in both deployed and broke down. Warlord has them, I don't see them in Perry. I kind of like to stay consistent in my sculpts. That way my dudes don't look like a hodgepodge. Unless anyone can point out a company that has what I need.
>I guess it's just a noob flag.
Or a poorfag flag, if your concerned about cost for your wants, needs, and desires.

>>67373184
Polystyrene figs are proof that God loves us and wishes us to be happy. This is coming from a graying beard that came from the time when your choices were either lead or pewter. Polystyrene is a great material to work with.

Anonymous No.67376626 Report

Quoted By:

>>67367681
>1$ per mini
>trying to be GW

Are you retarded?

Anonymous No.67377085 Report

Quoted By:

>>67367681
>>67369255

I prefer the bigger Warlord sculpts over Perry all day because i prefer to have 1/48 vehicles on my table, so the true scale perry soldiers would look way to small next to them.

Nice sculpts for nice prices though.
In addition to their small size, another thing to keep in mind is that their WW2 range is focused on Africa only. (Might work for Italy 1943 as well, but thats it).

That reminds me that i have 2 sets of french agincourt infantry in my stash which i wanted to paint last winter already.

Anonymous No.67377097 Report

Quoted By:

>>67374673
K47 is a different thing because they pay fees to the writers and sculpters of the game.

Anonymous No.67377126 Report

Best ruleset for WSS?

Best ruleset for WWI?

Anonymous No.67377738 Report

Quoted By:

>>67377126
black powder for both

Anonymous No.67377909 Report

>>67377126
Give us a preferred scale for both anon, to narrow it down

Anonymous No.67377962 Report

>>67377909
I don't own a single WSS miniature, but I would assume it would play better in 10mm than 28mm.

I already own a 28mm platoon of early war Germans for WWI.

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Anonymous No.67378382 Report

>>67366621
This was a game run by the Perry Bros, I have a couple more pics.

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Anonymous No.67378688 Report

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Anonymous No.67378877 Report

Quoted By:

Anonymous No.67378882 Report

Quoted By:

For someone who plays mostly skirmish games but is interested in some lightish big battle games with more of an emphasis on fun mechanics than a historical simulation, which game would you recommend the most?

At the moment I'm mostly interested in dark ages/medieval battles, and I've narrowed it down to Basic Impetus 2 (or Impetus 2 when the pdf version comes out), Sword & Spear, To The Strongest, Hail Caesar, or Art De La Guerre

View SameGoogleiqdbSauceNAOTrace TetOffensive_01J.jpg, 2MiB, 1920x1680

Anonymous No.67378928 Report

>>67366261
Only thing I can think of is Cry Havoc, which is technically a boardgame though not h&c

>>67377962
>I don't own a single WSS miniature, but I would assume it would play better in 10mm than 28mm.
Try Maurice

>I already own a 28mm platoon of early war Germans for WWI.
Try Through The Mud And The Blood, from the Lardies

>>67373950
Actually yes I am anon; I am interested to see what forces they decide to include, and I really like the MASH and Nork minis I've seen so far

Anonymous No.67379231 Report

Anyone know anywhere I can get soviet cavalry in 28mm scale for ww2?

These with some conversion are an option I'm looking into, head swap and see if I could Dremel the arm bands off and then with soviet colours on the unis that should look passable
https://footsoreminiatures.co.uk/collections/inter-war-period-1918-1939/products/buf-yeomanry-troopers

And I know West Wind sells soviet cav but the picture quality is garbage on their site and from what I can make out the sculpts don't look very good.
https://westwindproductions.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=76_161&product_id=1059

Any suggestions welcome, if it's soviet cav for sale or conversion fodder, thanks

Anonymous No.67379255 Report

>>67379231
I've seen people using ACW cavalry with some kitbashing with Soviet infantry.

Anonymous No.67379305 Report

Does anyone have a scan of "Check your 6!: Jet Age 3rd Printing"? If so, please share, couldn't find the 3rd printing specifically anywhere.

Thanks.

View SameGoogleiqdbSauceNAOTrace 41vhNQZccpL._SX425_.jpg, 8KiB, 425x425

Anonymous No.67379350 Report

Quoted By:

Anonymous No.67379359 Report

>>67377126
Wwi is difficult to model in its entirety as the style of warfare changed so radically in the western front, and varied from region to region.

Early war could be played with american civil war rules, 1918 could be played with ww2 early war rules. The trench war phase of 1915-1917/18 is the most iconic but imo least suited for tactical skirmish wargaming.

So the best game depends on your preferred phase (early war of movement, trenches, late war of movement), and scale (platoon, battallion, division).

I personally play late war with chain of command. Flames of war could work, and the lardies' mud&blood is okay. Most games in the trove focus on trench warfare. Mud and blood works for almost all periods. Large scale games (company and larger) i have not personally tried, but many of the tactical decicions of the trench war were made higher up on battallion and regimental level, like bombardment plans, raids, support, troop types etc. In a skirmish game there would need to be some interesting mechanic for static defence for the game to be interesting.

View SameGoogleiqdbSauceNAOTrace set up Norman perspective.jpg, 1MiB, 1746x2220

Anonymous No.67379467 Report

Quoted By:

>>67373839
That was the battle of Hastings.

Anonymous No.67379892 Report

>>67379359
>The trench war phase of 1915-1917/18 is the most iconic but imo least suited for tactical skirmish wargaming.
I would argue with this. Small scale trench actions could be played nicely, as well as parts of a bigger engagement (i.e.: you only see a platoon's sheanigans when the whole regiment is attacking), also after the trench warfare broke, there were a lot of dynamic action.

Plus you can always play the Eastern front with the dashing cavalry actions and eventually the Russian Civil War.

And as for >>67377126, I greatly enjoy Nordic Weasel's Trench Hammer, gives a satisfying result with a moderate amount of miniatures in a relatively short time.

Anonymous No.67379898 Report

>>67378928
I know about cry havoc, I was thinking of something bigger, like an army vs army thing. Is tactical tactical the right word for that?

Anonymous No.67379967 Report

>>67379898
I interpreted "tactical" in this sense to mean small units, i.e. skirmish gaming
SPI did a few h&c Medieval (and Ancient, for that matter) games, check out the titles in the Strategy & Tactics and H&C folders
I played their Acre game once, had a great time

Anonymous No.67380194 Report

Quoted By:

>>67379255
they look really cool, working with ACW plastics should be easier than the metals i was considering, just cut some perry cavalry at the waist and stick warlords soviets from the top.
That's a winner thanks.

Anonymous No.67380222 Report

>>67379967

I'd add, SPI's PRESTAGS (Legion, Yeoman, Chariot, Spartan, Viking) are great 'feudal' era and then some tactical H&C games.

For very light tactical gameplay, Ancients is good (despite the name, covers everything pre-gunpowder) and has a very underrated campaign game with which it is designed to meld directly, King of Kings. This was later re-released as Imperator, but KoK is better IMHO as it is hex not area based.

So King of Kings gives you strategic level play, Ancients works as its tactical battle resolution mechanism. Both games can be played standalone.

Anonymous No.67380551 Report

Quoted By:

>>67377126
Might and reason and it expansions by miles

Anonymous No.67380615 Report

So Warlord Games recently had their big event that featured plenty of previews, yet their online coverage of the event was very lacking with no information regarding new products. Their website also has no articles regarding the event itself. Could warlord anon tell us why Warlord hasn't posted any of their previewed miniatures online?

Anonymous No.67380933 Report

Quoted By:

>>67358580
Seconding this, it's a very good and simple game with a strong 'anything can happen' feel. The armour rules aren't fantastic but it's 100% intended as very zoomed-in infantry fighting game.

Anonymous No.67380989 Report

>>67379892
Least suited, not unsuitable. I was also comparing the period to ww2, which is arguably "more wargameable" in skirmish scale than trench warfare of the western front.

Other fronts and also the west after the spring offensives are again great periods for ww2 style skirmish wargaming, which is what people usually have in mind when playing with 28mm in this time period.

Realistic trench warfare combat would consist of very little maneuvre for the defender in most cases, and while i'd love to play some horde survival/tower defence style game, few rulesets support that. The rules in the trove work better with mobile warfare or larger scale operations.

For good inspiration (and a very bad historical source) one could look at battlefield 1, which has managed to turn many battles of the war into flashy and exiting skirmishes. Similar effect can be achieved with miniatures, but it is not realistic for trench warfare to have everyone maneuvre around the battlefield...

You are still correct though, i just wanted to point this out.

Anonymous No.67381071 Report

Quoted By:

>>67380989
>Realistic trench warfare combat would consist of very little maneuvre for the defender in most cases
Are you only considering the initial phase of the attackers crossing no mans land? What about when the attackers have already got a foothold and are trying to clear their section of trench as a local counter-attack starts? I've never played it but I've seen plenty of interesting Through Mud & Blood scenarios.

Anonymous No.67381132 Report

Quoted By:

>>67373282
Nope, but even with the conversion from Euros to USD and the shipping, one box of Perry is cheaper than Warlord box.

Anonymous No.67381192 Report

Quoted By:

>>67379967
>>67380222
Thank you very much for the recommendations!

Anonymous No.67381364 Report

Quoted By:

>>67357609
>Several six-sided dice (at least two will be needed).

Under "needed for play" in the introduction section

Anonymous No.67381475 Report

Would this be a good thread to talk about Spectre Operations?

Has anyone on /tg/ tried it?

Anonymous No.67381487 Report

Quoted By:

What's a good book or somekind of source about 12-13th century medieval warfare?

Anonymous No.67381614 Report

Quoted By:

>>67380615
i assume it will be in their next newsletter piece by piece

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Anonymous No.67383787 Report

Anonymous No.67384997 Report

I'm itching to start playing flames of war. I am looking to play british/commonwealth. What brand of miniatures do you guys recommend? I value cheap over quality. I checked plastic soldier company and they're over 30 bucks for one tank! (Canadian)

Anonymous No.67385107 Report

>>67384997
You sure you read right? They're 30 bucks canadian for a box of 5 (FIVE) tanks...

Them or Zvezda are the cheapest. PSC generally sell in boxes of 5, Zvezda in singles.

Anonymous No.67385371 Report

Quoted By:

>>67385107
Oh. I'm retarded. Thank you. On the Canadian web store I'm looking at the item is just called "Cromwell Tank" so I thought it was only 1 unit.
I will check out zvezda as well.
The guys at the FLGS that are introducing me to the game told me to just get the British armoured starter force by Flames of War, and they'll let me use units from their own collections to supplement that starter set.
They are super cool guys. About 20 years older than me but they were walking me through their game step by step to show me how to play. Afterwards we were all shooting the shit for a couple hours over coffee.
I'm very excited to get in to this hobby

Anonymous No.67386087 Report

>>67367681
No, that would be
> 1 US officer, 20 $.

Anonymous No.67386150 Report

>>67386087
> For Salute this year, we're releasing a limited-edition Prim- I mean, US Lieutenant!

Anonymous No.67386214 Report

Time for some early Russian armor.

>>67386150
I remember when people called FoW the GW of historicals and then said their only issue is that they can't trademark WW2 tanks. I guess now it's Warlord instead of BF.

Anonymous No.67386652 Report

Do you lot have any tricks to stay interested painting large blocks of irregulars? I'm currently working my way through some 28mm ECW and I just cannot care about painting all the baggage and hats and hose in different colours for more than a few minutes at a time.

Anonymous No.67386688 Report

yes, sadly I am still looking for a PDF of Black Powder 2nd edition. I want to see what it's like before buying the book.

Anonymous No.67386725 Report

Quoted By:

>>67386652
Force yourself to do it. Paint up a character or leader model after a completed batch. Shoot some heroin up your ballsack for motivation.

View SameGoogleiqdbSauceNAOTrace same thing every day.png, 13KiB, 500x315

Anonymous No.67386763 Report

Quoted By:

Anonymous No.67386774 Report

Quoted By:

>>67386688
Don't bother, it's shit. Stick with 1st edition.

Anonymous No.67386826 Report

Quoted By:

>>67386087
You say that now, but you don't boil a wargamer by cranking up the heat all at once.

Anonymous No.67386847 Report

Quoted By:

Anonymous No.67388211 Report

>>67341812
Modern BA plastics are amazing so if you want quality then go for these, idk how much IJA is actually plastic though.

Anonymous No.67388799 Report

>>67388211
Nah, they good but not amazing. They lack bits that Perry kits provide.

Anonymous No.67389171 Report

>>67388211
The basic infantry is plastic, which is what I'd be getting. Like I said before, I'm only looking to have a squad or two, which is what that box would get me. Or sections. Honestly I'm not sure exactly how the Japanese Army was organized or how many men were in a squad or platoon or anything, since all the numbers I've found have been along the lines of "about this many, I think". Guess it's not that big of a deal, I just don't want to accidentally make too many or too few of something.
>>67388799
I've gathered that from reading over the thread, but Perry doesn't make Nihonjin.

Real quick question; what size are the Warlord Games round bases? I don't think I saw it on their website. The Japanese Infantry sprue (single sprue) doesn't come with any bases, so I was curious what size to look out for if I decide to grab one in the future, if I wanted to recreate Onoda, Shimada, and Kozuka.

Anonymous No.67389248 Report

>>67389171
Bolt Action bases individual infantry on 25mm rounds.

Anonymous No.67389398 Report

>>67389248
Awesome, thank you. I've got a bunch of round 25mm bases in with my hobby stuff. While I prefer the flat bases of Warlord, you gotta' make due with what you've got, ya' know? Might shave down the lips on it, actually, even if that shrinks them.

Anonymous No.67389608 Report

Quoted By:

>>67389398
You can always get MDF bases for cheap.

Anonymous No.67389648 Report

Quoted By:

>>67389398
You worried the CIA niggers are going to figure out you've been buying plastic pussy?

Anonymous No.67390782 Report

Quoted By:

>>67318225
Well shit, mines gonna be in on Monday the 22nd, that ok? Ive painted them I just need to photo them.

Anonymous No.67390940 Report

>>67389171
As someone who orders just frames fairly often, they usually send you bases with the frame.

Anonymous No.67391200 Report

>>67390940
Huh. Says "It does not come with any additional bases, decals or instructions.", but if it does come with some I'll be pleasantly surprised. Thanks for the information.

Anonymous No.67391301 Report

>>67391200
I remember when I ordered the old plastic Germans to make Finns, they sent bases. I may be remembering, though

Anonymous No.67391449 Report

>>67391200
>>67391301
Warlord do tend to send bases when you order sprues. Everything shipped from Warlord is packed by hand and they include a name slip of the person who packed it, so they typically take care of you.

Anonymous No.67392280 Report

Quoted By:

War by Sail playtest yesterday - First Anglo Dutch war (And the points limit was 1652 points...)
The Dutch line-ahead tactic worked a charm, allowing them to focus fire on an English second rate that had split off from the main force to attempt to sandwich the Dutch line. The Dutch flagship took a pummeling, but they were able to cause the 2nd rate to sink and strike its colors. The remaining 2 English ships, a 2nd and 1st rate collided trying to get good shots in on the dutch, then the remaining 2nd rate was singled out by Dutch fire. As it began sinking, the final English 1st rate poured a broadside *through* the sinking friendly ship, trying to damage a Dutch 3rd rate beyond it...
Safe to say it was a decisive victory for the Dutch, and an example of why line-ahead became the prevailing naval strategy for the next 200+ years.

Anonymous No.67392385 Report

Quoted By:

Anonymous No.67392392 Report

>>67318131
For someone really new to historicals (as in doesn't even own miniatures yet) how good is Black Powder? How hard is it to find games in your experience?

Anonymous No.67392574 Report

>>67392392
It depends really, because Black Powder is intended to cover a rather large period of history. Black Powder is more of a toolkit than a comprehensive recreation of one specific battle or war like other rulesets tend to be. Generally speaking it goes from the early 1700s to the late 1800s without much trouble. I'd argue that it covers the Napoleonic Wars better than it covers the War of Spanish Succession or the Franco-Prussian War, but it's up to you to decide what period specifically you want to play in. If you're new to the hobby and you don't have an interest in WWII then the Napoleonic Wars and the American Civil War tend to be the next most popular. Those two periods have the most playability regardless of what ruleset you're using simply because of the sheer number of colleagues who will have relevant armies. If you can give more details as to what exactly you're interested in, how much you want to spend, what scale you like the look of, etc then I might be able to help with some further info.

But in short, pick a period first and then worry about rules.

Anonymous No.67392659 Report

>>67392574
The Napoleonic conflicts and the ACW are pretty much what I'm looking for, yeah. When I studied history in uni my preference was for medieval history, but it was mostly because of a lack of options on the former two periods. I'm hoping that getting into actual gaming on the subject might help kick-start me in a specific direction of interest; when you look at it all at once it seems a little much and one doesn't quite know where to begin.

As far as actual models and miniatures goes I'm thinking maybe something on the brigade level, but I'm not sure if that more or less forces me into the Warhammer-sized 28mm or if I have smaller options that look more impressive on the table.

I'm really, really new to this, so apologies ahead of time.

Anonymous No.67392899 Report

>>67318131
I've been searching our links. Do we not have Blucher?

Anonymous No.67393028 Report

>>67392659
Well to start, don't feel like you have to be shoehorned into any specific scale. Generally speaking 28mm is the most popular scale, but that doesn't mean you have to play in it. If you do choose 28mm it will mean that you have a wealth of options for miniatures and terrain (loads of manufacturers) and rule accessibility; you'll also have to play on bigger table spaces, spend a bit more money on each figure individually and have more storage space. The alternatives tend to be 15mm, 10mm and 6mm. Everyone has an opinion on what war works best in a certain scale but for the sake of being brief I won't go into the advantages and disadvantages of them all. Let's just say that besides 28mm the next most popular tends to be 15mm and from there 6mm. The smaller the scale, the less detail there will be on figures and the more need you'll have for book keeping. If you want your table to look like a diorama, go 28mm. A nicely painted 28mm army on the table will turn heads. If you don't mind lots of unit labels, dice, tokens and other indicators then go for something smaller. My personal preference is for 10mm although I buy and play with 15mm and 28mm too.

My favorite rules for the American Civil War is Regimental Fire & Fury. It's a bit more fluid than Black Powder. That said, almost any ruleset is going to need minor tweaking to truly get it to where you want it to be. I've found that Fire & Fury just happens to have a great foundation to build on and lots of adherents. It's well known within the United States among ACW gamers.

As for the Napoleonics, they can be a lot to take in. Nappy is arguably just as popular as WWII can be. Black Powder services the period amiably, but there plenty of other rules to choose from. If you choose the Napoleonics you won't be disappointed - it's often lauded as the premiere choice among historical gamers due to a variety of factors that are too long for me to list in this post as I'm now out of space.

Anonymous No.67393073 Report

>>67393028
I appreciate the suggestions and help. It's little wonder why /hwg/ is one of the better communities of this board.

I'm definitely thinking Nappy, my experience with WW2 is just a relative lack of interest in comparison. Something about growing up on Sharpe instead of Band of Brothers, I suppose.

Anonymous No.67393231 Report

>>67391449
I'll keep that in mind, thank you. I'm not sure it will be necessary, however. I've kept on reading about the IJA, and it looks like a standard section was thirteen men, so one box is going to get me two sections (which I will probably build as two... 'regular' sections? with LMGs). If I decide to make it a platoon, I'll get another box, and build one section with an LMG and the last one with three grenade-dischargers. I have no desire to build past a platoon, so I'd end up with eight men floating in the air.

Something else I suppose I'll mention; I have no idea where the CO and his assistant were in the platoon. Just tacked on to a section, replacing a private and a corporal, I guess, but LMG or GD, I can't say.

Boy. This was not how I expected to spend my weekend. Reading about the organization and doctrine of the Imperial Japanese Army.

Anonymous No.67393280 Report

>>67393231
I'd recommend using the extra men as things like the CO (if he's outside a normal section), or replacement guys, so you could have, say, two knee mortar squads and one LMG squad, instead of two LMGs and one knee mortar.
If you're planning on play BA, things like snipers or anti-tank teams could also be useful.

Anonymous No.67393336 Report

>>67393073
If you're interested in Naps, then I'd recommend Age of Eagles. It's based off of the Fire & Fury rules. Not too complicated and great fun. Only issue is some of the scenarios call for non-standard table sizes like 10x5 or 8x6.

Oh, and several hundred bases of 15mm troops.....per side.

Anonymous No.67393344 Report

>>67393073
If you like Sharpe then you won't have to look too deeply to find good miniatures. The British are perhaps the most popular force of the period in just about every scale you could choose, and if not then second only to France itself with Napoleon's Grand Armee. If you pick 28mm then a few manufacturers to keep in mind are Perry, Victrix and Warlord. They all have plastic infantry and cavalry to fill out your ranks, with metals to supplement as needed. Perry and Warlord both have 95th Rifles (Sharpe) sculpted and cast in metal too. There are probably a thousand smaller manufacturers out there doing metal castings of British soldiers from the Napoleonics, so really the sky is the limit. As for other scales, 15mm is serviced very well by AB Figures (they state 18mm but they're fine for 15mm purposes, there's no significant difference) and Alternative Armies. As for 10mm you could look into Old Glory, Magister Militum or Pendraken.

Anonymous No.67393375 Report

>>67393073
>Sharpe

Have you looked at Sharp Practice from TooFatLardies? It is intended for skirmish games ala Sharpe and Hornblower.

Anonymous No.67393399 Report

>>67393336
>>67393344
>>67393375
Appreciate all the advice. I'm doing a deal of research based on the suggestions.

Anonymous No.67393458 Report

Quoted By:

>>67393399
Glad I could help get you started. I'm usually lurking at all hours of the night so if you have any more questions I'll be around.

Anonymous No.67393897 Report

>>67393280
I don't think he is outside of the section, but I'll link and post the best sources I have for my information so you can look yourself instead of me trying to compose all this myself.
https://www.ibiblio.org/hyperwar/Japan/IJA/HB/fig/hb-23.jpg
The screenshot is from the Osprey on Japanese soldiers, which says that there's a two-man command attached to the platoon, but in the link and even the other parts of the Osprey, I'm not seeing the lieutenant and sergeant accounted for in the numbers.

As far as BA goes, I'll definitely keep that in mind. My interest for now is in sticking to two sections (what you get in a box), and maybe in the future grabbing another box to make a platoon. Some snipers and AT guns sound fun, though. Need to look into how they were incorporated.

Anonymous No.67394432 Report

View SameGoogleiqdbSauceNAOTrace French Army Talavera.jpg, 498KiB, 2252x460

Anonymous No.67394545 Report

>>67392659
For me, 6 and 10mm Napoleonics are where it shines.
You've been given some good advice already, but I'd encourage you to look a bit further than Black Powder, which is just bland. Not bad, but you can do better.

Pic related is my 10mm French.

Anonymous No.67394731 Report

>>67379892
What are some good WW1 miniature producers? I saw Flames of War has a few ww1 things. Any good 28mm like the photo?

Anonymous No.67394809 Report

Quoted By:

>>67393344
>>67393073

I picked up a few of my officer figures from Front Rank and they're fairly chunky/heroic 28mm but it's for Sharp Practice so the officers are meant to be larger than life characters in the game anyway.

Pic related, BN125 & BN126 who are my Sharpe and Harper facsimiles.

I really like the sculpts and they're not badly priced at all.

Anonymous No.67394848 Report

>>67394731
Airfix sells 20mm French, German, British and US infantry.

Anonymous No.67394938 Report

Quoted By:

>>67394731
Empress make great WWI Russians and some others. My WWI Germans are from Northstar.

Anonymous No.67395808 Report

I have a question about the nomenclature of wargaming.
What does an x-level game mean? Is a brigade level game one where two brigades fight each other, or is it where the smallest unit is a brigade? I always thought of that as being brigade vs brigade, but I've seen some people using the latter meaning.

View SameGoogleiqdbSauceNAOTrace P1050290.jpg, 505KiB, 1600x1200

Anonymous No.67395952 Report

>>67395808
In a X-level game, X is the maximum size of a army on one side
So in a brigade-level game, each player would have a number of units which together form a brigade
Flames of War (for example) is company-level because each side has a number of squads/platoons comprising a company

Anonymous No.67396486 Report

>>67395952

I'm a complete rookie when it comes to historicals and not really a military history buff by any means.

I'm still struggling at a more basic level than that. What I could really do with is a visualisation of army structure for British peninsular war.

Something that really breaks it down into who makes up a regiment or whatever. Or even what's the structure of a regiment, company, battalion etc. Are they even in the right order in my list?

What ranks command what size units? I only have a really basic understanding of that too.

I looked it up on Wikipedia but I struggle with descriptions like "a regiment is 1000 men" where there's so much implied knowledge about the personnel and command structure.

I'm sure that "it depends" is the answer but there's not usually any specific example to get a feel for it.

Can't see the wood for the trees with it all really and it's a bit frustrating.

I'm building a sharp practice force so it doesn't matter that much but I don't want anything glaringly "wrong" with my troops that means I've wasted time and money.

View SameGoogleiqdbSauceNAOTrace Sharpe's Rifles - Sharpe Meets T (...).webm, 3MiB, 720x405

Anonymous No.67396539 Report

Anonymous No.67396581 Report

>>67396539
That's a better quality of Sharpe than I've ever seen before

View SameGoogleiqdbSauceNAOTrace Sharpe's Company (7) You Sway, S (...).webm, 2MiB, 720x405

Anonymous No.67396596 Report

>>67396581
Would you say it's a sharp picture, anon?
The original series in HD: https://mega.nz/#F!ygUBGRIY!Vo1b4w6eXG2OIXqVL0i8ZQ

Anonymous No.67396628 Report

Quoted By:

>>67396539
Thanks anon, I appreciate it

Anonymous No.67396633 Report

Quoted By:

>>67396596
Absolutely based

Anonymous No.67396885 Report

Quoted By:

>>67394731
Emhar for 20mm, caesars stormtroopers are great.

What scale?

Anonymous No.67396897 Report

Quoted By:

>>67394848
Airfix wwi stuff is pretty useless, especially the americans and the british. They just have the wrong wquipment. The french are their best set, but other manufacturers have better stuff available, such as pegasus or revell.

Anonymous No.67396903 Report

>>67396539
So does Sharpe fug her?

Anonymous No.67396908 Report

Quoted By:

>>67394731
The stuff in the picture is zvevda 20mm russian infantry. This kit: http://www.plasticsoldierreview.com/Review.aspx?id=1853

View SameGoogleiqdbSauceNAOTrace Sharpe's Enemy (6) Teresa Rides.webm, 3MiB, 640x360

Anonymous No.67396918 Report

>>67396903
She's the first of his three wives and they have a daughter

Anonymous No.67397010 Report

>>67381475
Not yet but it's on my Xmas list.

Anonymous No.67397155 Report

>>67393897
>>67393231
Here's an early war platoon org.

http://toofatlardies.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/Japanese-List-1941-2.pdf

I have a 1942-45 one on my laptop I will try to remember to post later. LT and SNCO are both attached/detached to squads as needed. I think the list I posted is a platoon from a Type B division but I don't remember for sure off hand.

Anonymous No.67397166 Report

Quoted By:

>>67394848
He asked for good figures though

Anonymous No.67397346 Report

Quoted By:

Anonymous No.67397416 Report

Quoted By:

Anonymous No.67397485 Report

Anonymous No.67397593 Report

Quoted By:

>>67397485
'O my... 'wot a ser'prise... Sharpie."

Anonymous No.67398523 Report

>>67397155
Thank you. There's a tiny bit of discrepancy between this and the resources I was using (NCOs were issued swords, GD crews were two-man with six riflemen) but it isn't hard to brush this stuff off as existing for gameplay reasons.

Question about Chain of Command; do you need goofy special dice like you do with Bolt Action, or can it be played with regular old dice that just about everyone has?

Anonymous No.67398626 Report

>>67394545
Different anon, but could we have a quick rundown on the models? I've picked up some Frenchmen from Old Glory, but I'm kind of struggling with finding suitable basing as well as standards, and the way you have both is almost exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!

Anonymous No.67398681 Report

Quoted By:

>>67392659
If you can play with Longstreet for ACW you really shouldn't miss out.

For napoleonics I suggest Lasalle or Blucher if you want something elegant and streamlined, or General D'armee if you want something more slow+flavorful.

>>67394545
Agreed, BP is kind of the "I can't let go of my GW" ruleset.

Anonymous No.67399134 Report

Quoted By:

>>67398523
Any d6 will do.

A few different colours will help though, e.g. my brother and I roll black dice for most things, but our 5 command dice are white and are rolled just for the command dice... it means the command options are easier to track as you don't pick-up and roll the command dice by accident (and then forget exactly what command options you had originally). Similarly, the CoC points are added to separate dice (red, or the official ones) to keep track of CoC points.

You can do it others ways, we've found this works for us though.

Anonymous No.67399904 Report

>>67383787

That is the expression of a man who knows that all the terrain he has just made are, in fact, the children he will never have. And he has made peace with that.

Anonymous No.67399964 Report

>>67399904
In fairness, having kids is one of those few things that is actually MORE expensive than wargaming.

Anonymous No.67399997 Report

>>67399964
>having kids is one of those few things that is actually MORE expensive than wargaming.
The other more expensive things being in a relationship with a woman, and the most expensive is being divorced with children.

Anonymous No.67400096 Report

>>67399997

There are only two options available to a true gentleman.
>Being in a relationship with a man
>Being in a relationship with your wargaming terrain

Anything else is unconscionable.

Anonymous No.67400184 Report

>>67400096
>>Being in a relationship with your wargaming terrain
Sounds about, ah, whatchacallit
Right, yeah? [snorting laugh]

Anonymous No.67400354 Report

>>67400184
>>67400096
>>67399904

You'll never know how far your love for terrain goes until you're up at 2am wearing half a spongebob onesie, rubbing a rock on polystyrene, entirely without the influence of meth.

Anonymous No.67400821 Report

>>67400354
I wish I had the space for all sorts of terrain.

Anonymous No.67402383 Report

Quoted By:

>>67400821
I've definitely made/bought more terrain than I can store properly right now. It's like an addiction; figures are alright I guess but terrain makes the game for me.

You know in the background of beasts of war vids where it's wall-to-wall shelving with sets of terrain on? That's what I want.

Anonymous No.67402926 Report

Quoted By:

>>67400821
I had to stop making terrain because I ran out of space to store it and am loathe to simply get rid of the older, worse stuff when there's a possibility I might refit it in the future.

Anonymous No.67404698 Report

Quoted By:

BMP

Anonymous No.67404758 Report

>>67381475
I'm playing it with my lil bro using proxy minis and the rules in the media fire links above. Currently waiting for the rule book to come, it's a great system and I can't wait for my rule book plus minis to come desu

Anonymous No.67404787 Report

Quoted By:

>>67404758
Also when the rule book come I could (try) to scan it if y'all want. If it's gonna ruin the rule book though I can't do it though. I'm from the USA and the shipping was horrid from the UK.

View SameGoogleiqdbSauceNAOTrace Sebastiani IV Corps.jpg, 819KiB, 2096x924

Anonymous No.67405035 Report

>>67398626
Sure, my models are a mix of Pendraken and Magister Militum based on 60x30mm bases.

They were my first ever hwg project way back in like, 2014-15 so I have a lot of fondness for them, although they aren't my best work.

Anonymous No.67405779 Report

Quoted By:

>>67397010
I really hope you enjoy it anon!

I picked up some spetsnaz to paint up while I figure out the rules. I've always wanted a modern warfare miniatures game.

>>67404758
Shipping was pretty horrid from the UK, they put my address in the wrong fields but I sorted it out. I'm really glad that you're enjoying it anon, and I hope I feel the same when I get around to testing it.

Anonymous No.67406284 Report

Anonymous No.67406432 Report

Quoted By:

>>67406284
It's the most downloaded thing in the folder it's in. It's not hidden. Have a think about where a Napoleonic game might be.

View SameGoogleiqdbSauceNAOTrace 1538833558420.webm, 3MiB, 854x480

Anonymous No.67406763 Report

Quoted By:

Anon that was asking about the Japanese here. Think I'll go ahead, bite the bullet, and grab a kit of infantry. I've got a bit of a backlog right now, as well as a move, so I wont be getting to it very soon, but once I get started I'll keep you guys posted.

Thank you all for your assistance over the past... sheesh, four days. Doesn't seem like it's been more than two. Anyway, again, thanks to everyone that's helped me out. I'll be sure to return if I have questions about the IJA, game systems, or want suggestions with regards to model. As a send-off, here's another webm of American armor.

Tenno heiki banzai.

Anonymous No.67407097 Report

Quoted By:

>>67318225
Late but still here, Free French in the desert. Im sorry for the crap quality of the shots, works been riding me like a dog lately.

Also thanks to the anon that got me these for the last Secret Santa, they are nice sculpts. Im probably going to do a platoon.

View SameGoogleiqdbSauceNAOTrace Saxons base.jpg, 2MiB, 2000x2980

Anonymous No.67407259 Report

Quoted By:

>>67318225
Reposting mine I guess.

Anonymous No.67408983 Report

How would you go about making and painting 28mm Nationalist Chinese? Could you get away just using early war Germans?

Anonymous No.67409517 Report

Quoted By:

>>67405035
Very cool dude, I especially like the idea of labeling the bases, it would clear up a ton of what I imagine would come up in a game like this, especially starting out. From what I've read a lot of people like pendraken too, I'll have to check them out. Thanks for the explanation!

View SameGoogleiqdbSauceNAOTrace hoppopikes1.jpg, 62KiB, 960x720

Anonymous No.67409624 Report

more 15mm pikebois for my 28mm sucessorfriend

View SameGoogleiqdbSauceNAOTrace hoppopikes2.jpg, 61KiB, 960x720

Anonymous No.67409635 Report

>>67409624
they are based roughly on an achean league color scheme

View SameGoogleiqdbSauceNAOTrace hoppopikes3.jpg, 75KiB, 960x720

Anonymous No.67409649 Report

>>67409624
>>67409635
but will probably get used mostly as mercenaries

Anonymous No.67409653 Report

Quoted By:

>>67408983
Yes just paint them yellow

Anonymous No.67409690 Report

Are there any rules for playing sieges?

I spent like two weeks making and painting an xps foam castle, only to realize I don't know how to play with it

Anonymous No.67409997 Report

Quoted By:

>>67318206
I think the Force on Force special op book has a scenario for this.

>>67397155
1942-1945 list is attached. You can take the basic platoon structure and use it in Bolt Action or wherever you like

Anonymous No.67410015 Report

Quoted By:

And for completeness - USMC

Anonymous No.67410025 Report

Quoted By:

>>67409690

There are some board games that can be easily used or adapted for miniature use, but I do not know of any specific miniature rule book that covers that topic. There might be a couple that has a section on sieges. Did the old Chainmail rule book have something about sieges?

Also, there might be a club rule rules or home brew rules for sieges that I do not know about. Does anyone know of any such thing for this anon?

Anonymous No.67410131 Report

Quoted By:

>>67409690
Yes:
>Choose your forces, if using points the attacker should have a x2 - x3 advantage
>Set up your castle and armies
>If the defender wishes to meet the enemy in the field then play the game through as a normal battle letting defending units retreat into the castle
>Now both players must sit down in a small tent and discuss the terms under which the battle will be fought (how long the castle has to hold out for, any treaties, trading guns for time to supply, etc)
>Once this is done both players retire to their own table side
>Now wait
>every day roll a D% for every unit
>Attacker has a 2% chance to lose d6+2 men to desertion, and a 3% to lose d10/2 men to dyssentry/disease
>Defender has a 4% chance to lose d10/2 men to disease
>Check morale
>If attackers morale drops apply a -2% to the desertion roll per point lost
>If defender fails check for defender break
>Defender has a 1% chance to break
>Increase the % chance by 1 for every point a morale roll is failed by, decrease it by 1 for every 2 points it succeeds by
>If attacker morale gets to -20% check morale each day, a failure sees the unit break off and desert
>Check off a point of supplies for the castle for each man
>Check for siege weapon effect
>Each ballista kills D3 men from a unit manning the walls or active within range of the castle
>Each catapult deals 1 point of damage to a wall section
>Each trebuchet 3 points of damage
>Each light bombard 1
>Each heavy bombard 2
>Each light cannon 3
>Each heavy cannon 4
>Walls have 150 - 200 hits per 6" (28mm scale) section depending on thickness
>Towers have 250 - 350 hits
>Repeat daily
There you go, that should lead to a fun game that lasts for a good long time.
If one of you chooses to attack/sally then play a game using the forces remaining and apply any modifiers to morale to the units in-game.

Anonymous No.67410464 Report

Hi I am interested in playing some bolt action and I was just wondering if anyone could give me a basic rundown as to how the different armies play. Don't know which one to collect.

Anonymous No.67410528 Report

>>67410464
Germany has better machine guns, better officers, and can replace their NCO if he dies on a 2+

United States doesn't get -1 to shooting when advancing and their air officers can call two planes

Britain can choose their bonus from every nation. E.g: Britain has volley fire where every three rifles gives you an extra shot. They also get an artillery officer (100 points) for free.

Italy gets more brave or less brave depending on how many victory dice they have versus their opponent.

Japan's infantry is all fanatics and they can do banzai charges, so they never have to take an order check to charge.

Russia gets a free inexperienced squad with whatever they have modeled. They can also retake the test that you have to take when a squad loses half of its models.

Other nations have various bonuses but they're hard to remember. Like France gets a free artillery piece, different flavours of China get various things, etc.

Anonymous No.67410567 Report

Quoted By:

>>67410528
>Britain can choose their bonus from every nation

Every nation in the Commonwealth, that is.

View SameGoogleiqdbSauceNAOTrace dutch_musketeer_matchlock_1639.jpg, 246KiB, 1175x613

Anonymous No.67411178 Report

Check out this Dutch musketeer hanging out with Putin in the 1600s. It's had me cracking up for the last three minutes, it's such a perfect reaction image.

View SameGoogleiqdbSauceNAOTrace 32FF648C-B767-4D9A-9907-3B0747A9 (...).jpg, 135KiB, 432x442

Anonymous No.67411334 Report

Quoted By:

Anonymous No.67411888 Report

Quoted By:

>>67347416
Ridiculously well-painted horses, anon. Approaching the legendary Captain Blood from LAF.

Anonymous No.67412748 Report

Quoted By:

Any PDFs of the snappy nappy ruleset? Its name is awful, but the rules seem pretty good.

Anonymous No.67414770 Report

Quoted By:

View SameGoogleiqdbSauceNAOTrace 67123839_2361681574079055_437693 (...).jpg, 560KiB, 2048x1337

Anonymous No.67415719 Report

Still no scans of the missing annexes for Harpoon 4?

View SameGoogleiqdbSauceNAOTrace 374155-P-GVI61-887.jpg, 267KiB, 2013x1342

Anonymous No.67415928 Report

Quoted By:

>>67415719

to add to this, does anyone have any recent Jane's Fighting Ships scans? There was one going around 5 years ago but the link died.

Source: http://archive.4plebs.org/tg/thread/67318131/

Posted by: kraigkraiggrettere0274257.blogspot.com

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